走进摩洛哥非斯古城延续千年的皮革染坊传统
In the heart of Fez, Morocco, lies a sight that assaults both the eyes and the nose. The Chouara Tannery, one of the oldest leather dyeing facilities in the world, has been operating for over a thousand years. From rooftop terraces, visitors watch hundreds of stone vats filled with colorful dyes — yellow from saffron, red from poppy, brown from henna. But the smell that rises from the pits is unforgettable: a mix of pigeon droppings, quicklime and animal hides.
Workers stand knee-deep in those vats, beating and soaking raw cow, goat and camel skins by hand. Each morning, the skins are first cleaned in a mixture of water and limestone, then softened in a stinky solution of pigeon dung and salt. The ammonia in the dung helps break down the animal fibers, making the leather soft and ready to absorb natural dyes. It is not a job for the faint of heart — or nose.
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